This award enables holders to supervise people on single pitch crags and climbing walls. To gain this award you need more than just good personal climbing skills. Our approved Course Providers will teach you about safe group management, indoors and out, crag etiquette, environmental responsibilities and more. You will learn how to become an effective supervisor, encouraging others to enjoy their climbing safely, whilst also improving some of your own climbing skills.

You can watch a video about the Single Pitch Award taken from our Awards DVD here:

PROSPECTUS

• 1.1 INTRODUCTION
• 1.2 SCOPE OF THE SCHEME
• 1.3 STAGES IN THE SCHEME
• 1.4 REGISTRATION
• 1.5 TRAINING
• 1.6 LOGBOOK
• 1.7 CONSOLIDATION PERIOD
• 1.8 ASSESSMENT
• 1.9 EXEMPTION
• 1.10 SINGLE PITCH CLIMBS
• 1.11 EQUAL OPPORTUNITIES
• 1.12 FIRST AID
• 1.13 APPEALS PROCEDURE
  
  SYLLABUS

• 2.1 TECHNICAL COMPETENCE
• 2.2 THE CLIMBING ENVIRONMENT
• 2.3 SUPERVISION
• 3 GUIDANCE NOTES FOR CANDIDATES & TRAINERS
• 3.1 TECHNICAL COMPETENCE
• 3.2 THE CLIMBING ENVIRONMENT
• 3.3 SUPERVISION
• 4 GUIDANCE FOR COURSE PROVIDERS & ASSESSORS
• 4.1 technical competence
• 4.2 The Crag Environment
• 4.3 Group Supervision
• APPENDICES
• I SAMPLE THEORY PAPERS
• II SAMPLE PROGRAMMES
• III EXPERIENCE PRE-REQUIREMENTS
• IV BIBLIOGRAPHY

PROSPECTUS
1.1 INTRODUCTION
The numbers of organised groups enjoying rock climbing and abseiling on outcrops, crags, quarries and climbing walls has multiplied in recent years. The MLTUK and its member organisations are concerned that high standards of supervision are maintained, so that both enjoyment and safety are enhanced, without compromising either the sport of climbing or the participation of other crag or wall users. High standards of supervision and organisation are best achieved through experience, personal qualities, training and validation.

This scheme has been designed to provide a level of basic competence for those who are in a position of responsibility during single pitch rock climbing activities. Whilst the award does include a measure of personal competence it is not designed as such, and should not be used as either an entry requirement or measure of suitability for individuals who wish to climb on climbing walls or crags.

1.2 SCOPE OF THE SCHEME
The scheme is for those who are in a position of responsibility during single pitch rock climbing activities. It is primarily concerned with good practice, leading to the safe and quiet enjoyment of the activity. Completion of a training course alone, without taking an assessment course, is not a qualification in itself, although it may be of considerable benefit to the trainee.

It is valid throughout the United Kingdom and Ireland (MLTUK National Guidelines 1995) and is recognised by the Adventure Activity Licensing Authority. Completion of a training course, without taking an assessment course, is not a qualification in itself, although it may be of considerable benefit to the candidate.

For the purposes of this scheme, a single pitch route is one which: is climbed without intermediate stances; is described as a single pitch in the guidebook; allows students to be lowered to the ground at all times; is non-tidal; is non serious, having little objective danger and presents no difficulties on approach or retreat (such as route finding, scrambling or navigating). If you are in doubt about a particular venue then a member of the Association of Mountaineering Instructors or British Association of Mountain Guides is the appropriate person to approach for advice.

It is the duty of the employer or organising authority to decide whether a leader possesses the personal attributes needed to take responsibility for the care of young people and beginners. It is the combination of technical skills, wide experience and personal qualities that form the basis for effective supervision. This scheme assesses the technical skills and experience; the employer or organising authority must gauge the personal qualities.

The scheme does not cover:

• general mountaineering skills, such as those needed to approach and retreat from mountain and moorland crags
• multi-pitch rock climbing skills, the teaching of leading, or their supervision (these are covered by the Mountain Instructor Scheme)
• access to tidal sea cliffs, or any location where escape is not easily possible the gauging of candidate’s personal qualities.

1.3 STAGES IN THE SCHEME
The scheme comprises:

• pre registration personal climbing experience
• registration, joining a mountaineering council and being issued with a logbook
• minimum two day training course
• consolidation period between training and assessment
• two day assessment course
• continuing experience entered in logbookBack to Top

1.4 REGISTRATION
Candidates wishing to register with the Award must:

• have a genuine interest in rock climbing and the supervision of groups on single pitch crags
• have at least twelve months' experience of rock climbing and have climbed at least 20 graded rock climbs, at least some of which should be Severe grade
• be not less than 18 years of age at the date of registration
• be an individual or club members of a Mountaineering Council

On receipt of the registration form and appropriate fee, the home nation training board will issue a logbook. Candidates' personal details will be retained by the MLTUK and progression through the scheme will be recorded on the National Mountain Training Database.

1.5 TRAINING
Before attending a training course, candidates must be registered with the Single Pitch Award (SPA) (See 4 above).

Training courses are run by approved course providers and are at least two days long and include evening sessions (20 hours contact time). The training course will have a minimum of four candidates present, and a maximum of eight. The maximum trainer/candidate ratio is 1:4. Larger courses have dual benefits: the varied experience of the candidates enables an individual to have a better chance of seeing how their own skills compare and they also get the opinion of two trainers Lists of all approved providers are available from the Training Boards

The training course is for potential leaders and assumes basic competence as a rock climber with experience of leading climbs (See Appendix III). It will emphasise those skills which candidates might have difficulty in learning without expert guidance. A few minor aspects of the syllabus may not be covered during the training course and candidates are expected to deal with these items themselves.

The Director of Training will give oral comments to each candidate and will endorse the appropriate page of the logbook with comments about the programme, crags and walls used and conditions encountered. Candidates will receive individual recommendations for the consolidation period. The training course does not involve any written reports concerning the performance or standard of candidates. The title page of the logbook will be endorsed after a training course with an approved sticker. This will show the date and course provider number specific to your trainer. In exceptional circumstances it may be possible to register on, or immediately after, the course, but the trainer is obliged to submit a report to the Training Board containing all registered candidates’ details within 30 days.

Candidates are encouraged to use the skills checklist in the logbook to evaluate their current skills and to plan, with their trainers, their particular route towards assessment.

The Boards maintain close links with every provider through these reports submitted after each course. We also have a rolling programme of visits to courses and you may meet a moderator on your course. These visits not only maintain parity between providers but also provide a link between you and the Boards.Back to Top1.6 LOGBOOK
Experience gained by candidates should be recorded in the logbook. Entries should be concise and easily read, and should include all rock climbing and other relevant experience.

1.6 LOGBOOK

The logbook is divided into five sections:

• Pre-training experience
• Training course
• Consolidation period
• Assessment course
• Post-assessment experience

The logbook is designed to help you demonstrate your previous experience to others. If you fill it in before a training course you enable the trainers to discuss your particular training needs and to agree which areas of the syllabus you may need to concentrate on before taking an assessment. Few of us can remember every detail of every climb we have done, but this is no reason to avoid using the logbook. List examples of the variety of experiences you have gained and give details of the most notable (or exciting) days out. The information you give does not have to be verified by a third party but will form the basis for discussion at training and assessment

1.7 CONSOLIDATION PERIOD
Candidates will generally see many new ideas and techniques during training and will therefore need some time to practise and evaluate these before taking the assessment. During this period of consolidation, candidates are advised to climb at as wide a range of venues as possible, both as an individual and when assisting the supervision of others. The MLTUK recommends that all but the most experienced candidates allow a minimum of six months between training and assessment. There is currently no time limit on the validity of a training course and some candidates may take several years to complete the award.

1.8 ASSESSMENT
Before attending an assessment course, candidates must:

• have registered
• have attended a training course
• have gained further experience (see Appendix III)
• be proficient in the use of climbing walls
• be competently leading Severe grade climbs
• hold a valid First Aid Certificate

During the assessment course, which is two days long and includes evening sessions, candidates will be tested in accordance with the syllabus requirements. The assessment takes twenty hours (often a concentrated weekend) and is run by an approved course provider who is either a Mountain Instructor or a Mountain Guide. Lists of all approved providers are available from the Training Boards.

Assessors work on a ratio of 1:4 (or less). The overall course size can range from two candidates to eight. Larger courses have dual benefits; the varied experience of the candidates enables an individual to have a better opportunity of seeing how his/her own skills compare and they ensure that you receive the opinion of two assessors.

The Director of Assessment will endorse the logbook in one of three ways:
PASS: where a satisfactory knowledge and application of the syllabus and the necessary experience and attributes were demonstrated.
DEFERRED: where the performance was generally up to standard but complete proficiency has not been attained in one aspect of the syllabus. A one day reassessment will be required.
FAIL: where the performance has been generally weak, or the necessary experience and attributes have not been shown. Further training may be recommended before a complete reassessment can be carried out.

In all cases the result will be discussed with you and recorded in your logbook (the page is inserted by the course provider). Successful candidates may receive only brief notes on this page but candidates who are deferred or failed will receive specific written feedback. This will include the reasons for the result, recommendations on the additional experience needed and details of the format for subsequent re-assessment.

In considering the decision of the assessors, candidates are asked to listen to all elements of the final interview and wherever possible to raise any concerns at that time. If, on reflection, the discussion and the written report do not fit your impression of the assessment and your performance, then contact the course provider for additional clarification, in writing if necessary.

1.9 EXEMPTION
Experienced climbers who already have substantial experience of supervising groups on single pitch cliffs and climbing walls may apply to their Board's Secretary to be exempted from attendance at a training course. There is no exemption from assessment.

Before applying for exemption, candidates should consider the following points:

• The training course is not a climbing course, but introduces candidates to the skills necessary for introducing novices to single pitch climbing
• It includes material which might be unfamiliar to even experienced climbers .
• It is a fact that exemption from the training course increases the risk of failure at assessment.
• Candidates applying for exemption must:
• be registered with the scheme
• complete an exemption application form
• submit the completed logbook with the exemption application form and , fee to their Training Board. with whom they registered (Forms and details of fees are available on request from the MLTB, NIMTB, SMLTB and WMLTB
  

1.10 SINGLE PITCH CLIMBS
For the purposes of this scheme a single pitch rock climb is one which:

• is climbed without intermediate stances
• is described as a single pitch in the guidebook
• allows climbers to be lowered to the ground at all times
• is non-tidal
• is non-serious and has little objective danger
• presents no difficulties on approach or retreat, such as route finding, scrambling or navigating.

1.11 EQUAL OPPORTUNITIES
The Training Boards are committed to promoting equal opportunities for all people taking part in climbing and mountaineering. Candidates, trainers and assessors should express a positive attitude towards equal opportunities and act as positive role models.

1.12 FIRST AID
For the Single Pitch Award holder, first aid is an essential skill and the SPA assessment requires a current first aid qualification. The minimum requirement is that such a course must involve at least two full days or sixteen hours of instruction and include an element of assessment.  It is the responsibility of award holders and/or their employers to evaluate their likely work and the type of situations that they can reasonably expect to encounter and to maintain current appropriate first aid training and qualifications.

1.13 APPEALS PROCEDURE
The Training Boards have an established appeals procedure that will be carried out in the following order:

• dialogue between candidate and course provider to establish the reasons for the decision and the subsequent recommendations before reassessment
• contact Training Board Officers for informal discussion and additional clarification
• write to Training Board Officers with details of your appeal. They will then ask the course provider to respond in writing, supplying any original paperwork. The officer will arbitrate and give his/her view on the validity of the decision with any additional recommendations for both the provider and the candidate
• appeal directly to the Chair of the Training Board, whose decision is final.Back to Top

SYLLABUS

2.1 TECHNICAL COMPETENCE
Candidates must demonstrate competence in the following areas:

2.1.1 Equipment

• identify equipment suitable for personal and group use at a given venue
• demonstrate an ability to evaluate the condition of equipment and ensure appropriate care and maintenance
• demonstrate the ability to use climbing wall equipment appropriately

2.1.2 Anchors
Select suitable, sound anchors in a variety of situations including:

• spikes and blocks
• nuts and camming devices
• threads, chockstones and trees
• fixed equipment

2.1.3 Belaying

• connect self and others to the rope
• set up sound belay systems to single and multiple anchors
• attach self to the belay system
• demonstrate the use of direct and indirect belays
• use a variety of different belay techniques/devices competently and choose the most appropriate for a given situation
• set up top and bottom rope systems and choose the most appropriate system for a given situation
• arrange appropriate runners and belays to protect a seconding climber
• hold falls and carry out lowers

2.1.4 Abseiling

• abseil without the use of a safety rope
• set up fixed and releasable abseils
• use a variety of different friction techniques and devices competently and choose appropriately for a given situation
• solve common abseiling problems such as tangled ropes, inadvertent locking and pendules
• choose an appropriate abseiling site with consideration for:
  - ease of take off
  - loose rock
  - impact on the environment and the climbing resource
• demonstrate methods of safeguarding a novice abseiling

2.1.5 Personal Climbing Skills

• interpret guidebooks effectively
• choose routes suited to personal ability
• move confidently on Severe grade rock climbs
• place runners suitable for lead protection
• demonstrate a basic understanding of the safety chain & fall factors

2.1.6 Background Knowledge

• demonstrate some understanding of:
• the history, traditions and ethics of UK rock climbing
• the home nation training boards and the MLTUK
• the club system and the Mountaineering Councils
• competition climbing

2.2 THE CLIMBING ENVIRONMENT

Candidates must demonstrate competence in the following areas:

2.2.1 Access

• understand and observe current access and conservation guidelines
• interpret and use effectively the access information given in guidebooks and other sources of information
• show an appreciation of and care for all aspects of the climbing environment
• show an awareness of, ability to obtain information on and willingness to comply with, locally important crag issues and agreements
  

2.2.2 Conservation

• demonstrate good practice in the conservation and care of the environment
• operate in such a way as to minimise impact on the environment (including the climbing resource)
• define problems of conservation and the effects of human pressure on the climbing environment
• manage groups so as to leave the crags in an improved condition
• demonstrate an awareness of locally important species and the legal situation relating to protected flora/fauna
• demonstrate some knowledge of different rock types and crag features

2.2.3 Etiquette

• demonstrate an awareness of responsibilities to the general public, environmental agencies, local residents, farmers and the climbing community
• demonstrate an awareness of local rock climbing ethics related to single pitch crags
• operate a flexible programme of activities so as to accommodate other site users
• be aware of the hazards presented to other site users by the actions of a group, and act to minimise these
  demonstrate an awareness of the site-specific requirements and agreements relating to different crags, climbing walls and artificial structures

2.3 SUPERVISION
Candidates must demonstrate competence in the following areas:

2.3.1 Organisation

• plan a day's programme of activities to take place at:
  - a crag
  - an artificial climbing structure
• assess the abilities and objectives of the group participating in this plan
• check underlying aims and the objectives of the event
• demonstrate an awareness of responsibility to any authorising organisation, parents, individual group members, the group as a whole and other site users
• demonstrate an understanding of the impact of weather on climbing
• have built-in flexibility when planning activities in order to respond to changing circumstances
• know how to call for expert help in the case of an accident or injury

2.3.2 Group Management

• choose an appropriate venue and route for group use considering:
  - suitability of approach/descent
  - terrain at the base of the crag
  - objective dangers such as loose rock
• demonstrate the safe and responsible management of all group members irrespective of whether or not they are directly involved in the climbing activity
• brief individuals and the group appropriately
• manage the individuals and the group effectively by:
  - good communication skills
  - setting and reviewing targets
  - identifying and reacting to the needs of the group in relation to involvement, interest, enjoyment and achievement
• supervise a group of novice climbers belaying
  manage time appropriately in relation to the plan, activity and conditions

2.3.3 Supervising the Session

• issue appropriate rock climbing equipment and check correct fitting and use
• deliver technical instruction to individuals and the group including:
  - choice and fitting of suitable harnesses
  - attaching the rope to the harness
  - advice, demonstration and coaching on climbing movement
  - demonstration of effective use of chosen belay device
  - safe use of friction device for abseiling
• demonstrate an understanding of how to avoid common problems such as a stuck climber/abseiler
• solve common problems including:
  - stuck climber whilst on a safety rope
  - stuck abseiler whilst abseiling with a safety rope
• demonstrate the use of bouldering activities with groups
• demonstrate an understanding of warming up and injury avoidance techniques
• demonstrate an understanding of the needs of those with physical and mental disabilities and medical conditions

3 GUIDANCE NOTES FOR CANDIDATES & TRAINERS
3.1 - TECHNICAL COMPETENCE
The SPA Syllabus does not define a set of techniques; rather it describes a range of skills with which candidates should be familiar. It is likely that training courses will be run as a series of open discussion workshops - taking advantage of the experience of trainees as well as that of trainers.
The SPA syllabus is based on the assumption that candidates are already rock climbers with experience of leading climbs at crags. It will be expected that candidates already have some limited experience of selecting anchors, belaying, climbing and abseiling, so the emphasis on a training course will be to provide opportunities to share ideas and refine techniques.
As far as possible, an integrated approach to the syllabus should be adopted with issues such as problem avoidance and environmental impact considered throughout the course rather than as isolated modules

3.1.1 Equipment
Potential supervisors should be aware of the range of equipment suitable for use by novices as well as that for personal climbing use. It would be expected that a candidate could offer advice on choice and suitability of equipment, as well as having a reasonable knowledge of care, maintenance and life expectancy. In addition to being able to offer advice on the selection and use of equipment a candidate should be aware of sources of information, such as current publications and materials produced by Mountaineering Councils

3.1.2 Anchors
Candidates should be exposed to a wide variety of anchors during training. Emphasis should be placed on (1) the ability to select sound anchors, and (2) different ways of connecting the climber to the anchor. As the selection and appropriate use of anchors is often a weakness, this element of the syllabus should be covered during a practical session at training.
It may be useful to consider anchors in the following three categories; (1) natural anchors such as spikes, blocks, threads, chockstones and trees, (2) hand placed anchors such as nuts and camming devices and (3) fixed equipment such as stakes, bolts and pitons.
A training course offers the opportunity for candidates to extend their experience and this particularly applies to the use of equipment. It is expected that the training course will utilise gear provided by candidates themselves, as well as that of the trainer, to illustrate the appropriate use of different equipment.
Trainers should ensure that candidates are aware of the characteristics of different rock types, and how this affects the selection of sound anchors. This can be achieved by visiting more than one rock type during a training course, suggesting venues to be visited during a period of consolidation between training and assessment, discussing logbook entries etc.

3.1.3 Belaying
Harnesses
As well as ensuring that candidates are aware of best practices with their own harnesses the appropriate use of a variety of others should be included within a training course. Consideration should be given to occasions when a full body harness is appropriate

Tying on
The harness manufacturer’s recommended method of tying onto the rope should be encouraged for personal climbing. The differences in attachment appropriate to different harnesses should be illustrated.

Constructing a belay
The way in which candidates construct belays to single and multiple anchors should be reviewed. The trainer should demonstrate alternative systems and emphasise the benefit of being able to adapt different systems to suit different circumstances.
Considerations when setting up a belay include essential elements such as: (1) selection of safe & independent anchors, (2) tying-off the anchors independently, (3) ensuring that the anchors are taut and equally loaded, and (4) ensuring that the position of the belayer is stable when tied into the belay. Desirable elements include; (a) use of the rope loop central tie-in rather than the harness webbing loop as a focal point for attachment to the belay system, (b) systems that are easy to adjust, and (c) simple, and therefore quick, foolproof systems.
The ability to set up a sound system for oneself as well as for another climber should be covered. Belays using the rope only should be covered, as well as those including the use of slings.

Single and Multiple Anchors
In different situations it may be appropriate to construct a belay from either single or multiple anchors. A supervisor should have the ability to do either as appropriate, and not always have to rely on the same system. Although candidates may prefer to always adopt their favoured system trainers should make every effort to illustrate the fact that the climbing medium is not uniform and that to operate safely, different crags and circumstances may well require very different techniques. Trainers should encourage debate regarding the advantages and disadvantages of a range of belay/anchor systems, including environmental impacts and safety issues.

Direct and Indirect Belays
A "direct belay" is one in which the load on a rope is held directly by the belay system without passing through the harness of the belayer. An "indirect belay" is one in which the belayer is an integral part of the belay system - which is usual practice when a climber has led a route and belays at the top of a climb. The advantages of each should be evaluated during a training course and appropriate uses of each technique identified. It should be stressed that techniques that have advantages in top and bottom roping situations are often inefficient and unnecessary for personal climbing.

Top and bottom ropes
Setting up "top ropes", where a climber at the top of a climb controls the rope, and "bottom ropes", where the rope is controlled from the base of a climb should be trained and practised. A distinction should be made between the techniques of a climber climbing with a competent partner, in which routes are led and then seconded, and those of a supervised session, when the ropes may be set up without the supervisor climbing the route first.
A range of systems, including the use of separate rigging ropes, should be demonstrated for setting up top ropes and bottom ropes. As well as the technical aspects of constructing these systems, other considerations such as the potential impact on the environment or other climbers should be considered.

Belay techniques
A wide variety of belay devices is available. A training course should enable candidates to evaluate a range of techniques and devices so that they can choose the most appropriate for a given situation. Trainers should ensure that a variety of devices are available during a course and candidates should be encouraged to experiment with new devices under the guidance of a trainer. The positioning of the device on the belay system relative to the direction of pull, the anchors and the nearby rock should be considered. Factors affecting a belayer’s ability to hold a fall include the type of belay device, the weight of the climber, the slickness of the rope, the gripping strength of the belayer and the runners in the system.

Falls and lowers
This element of the syllabus should be practised only in the most controlled situations. Holding a fall when top roping and bottom roping should be included in a training course. In effect this should amount to no more than taking the weight of a climber, as good belay technique would result in a fall being arrested before the climber has gained momentum. This provides an opportunity to illustrate the importance of good belay construction and should be performed under careful supervision. In addition to arresting a fall and then performing a controlled lower to the ground, candidates may benefit from tying-off the belay device before commencing a lower. Trainers may judge that it is appropriate to teach tying-off techniques in a situation where climbers are not exposed to the risk of being dropped to the ground. As an SPA holder has responsibility only for climbers seconding or top roping climbs, holding a falling leader is beyond the scope of the SPA scheme.

3.1.4 Abseiling
It must be stressed that abseiling has a specific role in rock climbing - namely as a means to an end rather than as an activity in its` own right. When abseiling on crags great care should be taken to avoid conflict with rock climbing - by either causing damage to the climbing resource or interfering with other climbers. Although abseiling is a skill required by climbers, very careful consideration should be given to the venues at which group abseils are conducted and the context in which it is placed.

Setting up abseils
Crags included within the remit of the SPA scheme do not need to be approached by abseil. Abseiling is included in the Syllabus as a personal skill for such purposes as gear retrieval or getting close to a stuck climber or abseiler. An ability to control the descent and stop whilst abseiling is essential. Trainers are expected to demonstrate appropriate methods of self-protection to assist candidates in safeguarding themselves when abseiling.
Candidates should set up and use fixed and releasable abseils, with the rope attached to suitable belays. A releasable system of attaching the abseil rope to a belay is useful in a supervisory situation and should be demonstrated at training. The advantages of each method of attachment in different situations should be evaluated.

Harnesses
The attachment of an abseil device and safety rope (where used) to the harness should be covered. At times it may be necessary to construct suitable additional support for a climber when abseiling with a sling arrangement. This may be because the abseiler is a young child or adult with an ill-defined waist, for whom an improvised chest harness would be advisable, or because the abseiler is particularly top-heavy, for whom chest support would also be advisable.

Friction devices
Different abseiling situations may require the use of different friction devices. Factors such as how slick the rope is, the steepness of the abseil and the confidence and weight of the abseiler all affect the choice of device. It may be appropriate to demonstrate a range of techniques and methods of altering the degree of friction.

Abseiling problems
Most abseiling problems are foreseeable and so should not occur, but nevertheless the solutions to simple problems should be covered in practice at training. In addition to methods of solving situations, emphasis should be placed on the skills and judgement required to prevent problems from occurring in the first place. Solutions to problems such as tangled abseil ropes, a jammed friction device, or a student moving to one side resulting in a potential pendulum should be considered.

3.1.5 Personal Climbing Skills
Guidebooks
Guidebooks are an important source of information for the rock climber. In addition to route identification information, important access and environmental information is contained within most guides. If this may be out of date, other sources of information should be used.
The SPA is a national award and candidates are reminded that by the time they are ready for assessment they should feel confident about climbing on unfamiliar single pitch crags. Guidebooks are produced by a variety of different organisations in different areas of the country and candidates are expected to be familiar with more than just those books that cover their own locality. Misinterpretation of a guidebook leading to incorrect route choice can lead to difficulties, so the importance of this seemingly simple element of the syllabus cannot be overstated.

Route choice
Judgement as to the suitability of a climb is as significant for one’s own enjoyment as it is for the enjoyment of novices being introduced to climbing. The selection of a suitable route is a process of combining guidebook information with personal observation. Training courses should build in opportunities for candidates to choose routes from guidebooks and climb them.

Severe climbs
There is no requirement for candidates to climb at Severe prior to, or during, a training course. The ability to climb confidently at this grade is required prior to assessment and trainers should ensure that candidates are fully aware of the additional climbing experience they need to gain between training and assessment.
Candidates at training should not feel under pressure to climb at any particular grade, other than that at which they feel comfortable. It is more important that they have experience of leading climbs than an ability to climb hard routes.

Leading climbs
The SPA assumes at least 12 months’ climbing experience prior to registration with the scheme. It is therefore not a basic skills course, but more a refinement of the techniques of personal climbing and an extension into the skills associated with supervising novice climbers. If candidates have not led a climb with leader-placed protection prior to attending a training course they will be limited in what they can contribute and potentially overwhelmed with new information.
During the training course the placement of runners to protect a leader should be covered and practised. Depending on the prevailing circumstances this may not take place on graded rock climbs, but on ungraded rock or at a wall where gear placements are possible. The placement of runners to protect the second, as well as the lead climber, should be considered on climbs that involve horizontal traverses or roofs for example.

Safety chains and fall factors
The basic principle of keeping the number of links in a belay system to the minimum should be explained. The advantage of minimising unnecessary links in a system (such as single karabiners in place of quick-draws or use of the rope alone, in place of slings and karabiners) should be discussed.
Fall factors in theory predict the impact force of a fall. In reality this also depends on the frictional properties of karabiners and ropes, as well as the distance fallen, relative to the length of rope in use. A full knowledge of these complex calculations is not necessary, but the principles involved are important and at least a discussion of this topic should be included during a training course.


3.1.6 Background Knowledge
A sound knowledge and experience of climbing is fundamental to the SPA scheme. An award holder is not simply a safe operator of ropes and judge of anchors, but equally importantly, a climber with an understanding of and interest in sustainable use of the climbing environment.

History and Ethics
Climbing is not defined by a set of rules, but by an unwritten code of conduct that is the result of the actions of climbers themselves. Although this is based on the history and traditions of climbing, it is also continually changing as techniques, equipment and aspirations evolve. An SPA holder is contributing to this process of development by introducing novices to the sport and so every effort should be made to ensure that this is done in a sensitive and understanding manner. Candidates are therefore expected to be aware of current issues - through an active personal involvement in climbing and by reading the climbing press.

Clubs and Mountaineering Councils
It is probable that most climbers are not members of climbing clubs, although this would provide an effective means of participating in the sport. SPA award holders would be expected to be able to advise a newcomer on how to contact local clubs, and to explain some of the associated benefits.
The home nation mountaineering councils are not governing bodies that impose rules, but representative bodies that defend the rights of climbers. At the point of registration with the SPA scheme candidates must be a current member of their home nation Mountaineering Council). This ensures contact with the organisations that devised the award and conduct work on behalf of the climbing community.
For further information on the work of the Mountaineering Councils, please refer to the preface and the appendices.

3.2 THE CLIMBING ENVIRONMENT

3.2.1 Access
Access to climbing areas is a right that depends in some areas on the good will of landowners, and in all locations on the appropriate conduct of climbers. As an individual climber it is important to have an understanding of the issues and problems affecting access to climbing areas. As an SPA award holder introducing novices to the activity, this responsibility is increased. Most guidebooks contain important information relating to the specific area covered. It is important to know how to access more up to date information - from local climbers and clubs, retail outlets or the respective Mountaineering Councils.
In addition to knowing how to obtain this information, a sympathetic understanding of the issues is important if novices are to be encouraged to participate in a sustainable manner. By careful use of venues and provision of case study material trainers should illustrate a range of current national issues to demonstrate the importance of this element of the syllabus.


3.2.2 Conservation
Supervisors should demonstrate an awareness of the potential impact of climbers in general and groups in particular from the moment of selecting a venue through to the point at which the crag is left and the journey home made.

The crag environment
Candidates must be aware of the potentially greater impact of groups upon the environment than that of individual climbers. If climbing as an activity is to be sustainable into the future, then the impact of all climbers on the environment must be minimal. The crag itself, as well as the ground in the immediate area at the bottom and top, should be considered. A benefit of visiting at least two distinctly different climbing venues during a training course is that real conservation issues may be observed. It should be borne in mind by trainers and candidates that the SPA is a national award and that candidates are expected to be familiar with current conservation issues relating to a wide range of climbing areas and rock types.

Designated sites
Many crags are of local, national and international importance in terms of their geological and ecological interests. Crags designated as Sites of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) for example, have statutory protection and are administered by the national conservation bodies. Many crags support important populations of nesting birds or important species of flora (plants, mosses, lichens etc). Examples of ecologically or geologically important sites should be discussed during a training course and the importance of respect for these conservation issues instilled. If the local guidebook is not new, it is possible that the information within it is outdated. Alternative sources of information such as the mountaineering Councils’ crag databases, National Trusts or Park information centres may provide more accurate, up to date information.

Current access guidelines
In addition to guidebook information, some areas have local agreements that have been established to help maintain sustainable use of climbing venues. If candidates intend to work in areas with which they are not familiar, every effort should be made to gain appropriate local information from available sources

3.2.3 Etiquette
Local rock climbing ethics
Candidates should be aware of local rock climbing ethics, particularly those that relate to single pitch crags. The fact that ethics differ markedly from one climbing area to another should be noted. Accumulated experience of climbing in different locations should be seen as an important part of the background of a good SPA holder. It is possible to read about the ethics relevant to different locations in guidebooks and other material, but the benefit of direct experience should not be underestimated.

Flexible planning to avoid conflict with individual climbers
There should be no conflict between a supervised group of novices and independent rock climbers. If local ethics are taken into consideration, routes are chosen carefully and areas of the crag are not occupied for long periods of time, conflict will not occur. It can be seen that considerable climbing experience on the part of the candidate is important in gaining an understanding of the interests and practices of independent climbers.

Awareness of group impact on other site users
Large groups of climbers can dominate specific routes and even whole areas of crag so every effort should be made to minimise this possibility. The following strategies may help; working in small groups, climbing routes from the ground up, moving from route to route rather than repeatedly top roping the same route, never abseiling on recognised climbs and asking climbers if they wish to ascend routes occupied by top ropes etc. It is important to recognise both that groups have no more right to use a crag than individual climbers. The supervised climbing experience may be a formative one for group members, in which case the style of operation is very important for the future of climbing.

Manage session so as to minimise impact
A group of climbers under supervision has an impact on the environment around a crag, on the rock itself and on other crag users. Potential impact on others may take the form of interference with what they are doing or plan to do, or present a more direct increase in risk. Candidates should develop ways of avoiding exposing others to risk by careful group management and organisation of a session.
Single pitch crags are generally relatively free from objective dangers such as stone fall. As a result climbers rarely take precautions such as wearing helmets or basing themselves at a distance from the foot of the crag. Effective group supervision, careful choice of route and descent are all important factors in minimising risks to others.

Leave the site in an improved condition
A positive contribution can be made to the crag environment and this should be encouraged to engender respect for the environment amongst newcomers to the sport. Many crags are in environmentally sensitive areas where access may be under threat and the more that can be done to encourage respectful and positive behaviour, the less likely that access will be lost. However, a positive respect for the environment should be seen as an essential element of any outdoor activity, not just the required behaviour to ensure access. Heavy use of any site will result in environmental degradation, but every effort should be made to minimise this through the encouragement of caring behaviour patterns and positive action where possible.
Simple steps such as the use of footpaths rather than walking on the surrounding ground, because it is easier to hold a conversation when walking two abreast and the use of soft soled shoes, rather than clumsy boots where appropriate, will help to minimise impacts. Positive action may include removal of other people’s litter as well as ones own, careful repositioning of loose stones at the top of abseils, rather than knocking them to the base of the site, retrieval of unsightly jammed gear and involvement in, or contribution to, local conservation schemes.

Awareness of impact on others at climbing walls
Climbing walls are often heavily used and climbers operate at them much more close together than at outdoor sites. Similar principles should be applied to the use of a wall as a crag - namely that unless specific arrangements have been made, everyone has an equal right to use of the facility, so no one group or individual should dominate an area or climb. In bouldering areas matting may be fixed or moveable, in which case great care should be taken to ensure that there is a common understanding about who is using the mat and where it is positioned. Due to the proximity of routes at walls, great care should be taken when top roping to ensure an understanding with climbers on adjacent routes about who is doing what. As many walls are public leisure facilities they are governed by their own rules and regulations that must be fully understood prior to use with groups.

3.3 - SUPERVISION
3.3.1 Organisation
Effective organisation of a session requires good planning and this in turn requires a clear understanding of the objectives. Candidates must develop an awareness of how variables such as the weather, the abilities and motivation of the individuals and characteristics of different venues all have an impact on the effectiveness of the session. Often it is the quality of the experience that may suffer if these factors are not recognised, but safety may also be compromised. The ability to change plans to suit differing circumstances is fundamental to any successful session

Candidates must posses a current first aid certificate for their SPA to be valid. In the event of an accident or illness they need to have a good understanding of the procedures for calling for outside help.

Unlike most crags, climbing walls are managed facilities with specific codes of conduct that apply to their use. Prior to using a wall to supervise novices it is advisable to be familiar with these as specific equipment may be required. Moreover, adherence to certain ratios, or completion of consent forms may be necessary. As with crags, different walls have different characteristics and may or may not be suitable for the objectives of a particular session. For example, some walls may have climbs mainly in the higher grades or have only limited in-situ top ropes, while others may have predominantly bouldering areas.

3.3.2 Group Management

Ability to manage groups
An award holder is expected to be proficient in the management of group members while they are not actually climbing, as well as for the safe execution of climbing techniques. The supervision of a novice whilst climbing should be seen as only one element of supervision, as it is the management of novices whilst not climbing that is often more complex. Considerable experience of novice supervision should be gained between training and assessment courses in an assistant capacity alongside more experienced supervisors and instructors. As with personal climbing, this experience should be gained in a variety of contexts; walls and crags, different rock types, different size groups etc. As well as being experienced in supervision techniques, candidates are expected to have knowledge of working ratios suitable for different situations. Climbing techniques including methods of attachment to the rope and the supervision of students whilst belaying are easy to practice in isolation; the experience of a trainer should be used to demonstrate as much as possible the other more subtle skills of supervision.
Approach and descent from a route are aspects of climbing supervision that are more difficult to control than the act of climbing itself and so careful consideration should be given to these factors when selecting routes. By careful choice of easy, as well as relatively complex crags, a trainer should illustrate the range of venues that are acceptable for use by a SPA holder. The definition of single pitch climbs within the scope of the award clearly excludes crags where access to either the top or base is difficult. At an acceptable venue, however, having gauged the qualities of a particular group, the award holder may judge that certain routes are inappropriate. The development of this judgement is greatly aided by accumulation of experience in a variety of situations, both when assisting with groups and when climbing independently. This element of the syllabus is clearly linked to the ability to establish clear and effective communications with a group.

Ability to manage all members of the group
Often the aspects of a climbing session that are most difficult to control are when group members are not actually attached to a rope. Group members not actually abseiling must be protected from risks whether they are at the top or base of the abseil site. Although novices may perceive the roped climbing as the most exciting element of a session, it is typically the unroped activities, such as descending or standing at the base of a crag, that are most hazardous. Candidates must be able to control these aspects of a climbing session in order to demonstrate competence, and should take advantage of the experience of trainers and peers to develop skills in this area of the syllabus. As with all aspects of supervision, the value of experience gained whilst assisting other supervisors and instructors should not be under-estimated.

Communication
Communication is the basis of good organisation and effective group work. Appropriate communication within a group at a single pitch venue or climbing wall is essential and this may not rely on the use of formal climbing calls. As with all aspects of supervision, experience is the most effective way of developing these skills.


3.3.3 Supervising the Session

Choice and use of equipment
Frequently, candidates at training have limited experience of equipment suitable for group use. Items such as low stretch rope, edge protectors, different harnesses and a wide range of other kit should be available for use during training to maximise the benefit of the course. It is particularly useful if trainers run larger courses for 6 to 8 students as this will usually result in a broader range of equipment being available. Different venues will encourage the use of specific items of equipment. As the SPA is a national award, candidates are expected to be aware of equipment suitable for use in a wide range of circumstances.

Supervision of group members belaying
Belayer error is a potential cause of serious accidents. Correct use of a belay device is fundamental to climbing and the decision as to when a student is capable of undertaking this element of rope management is an important one. Candidates at training often have limited experience of using different belay devices and of supervising novices who are learning to belay. It may often be appropriate to create several opportunities during a training course to demonstrate a variety of methods of group organisation and supervision of novices belaying. Between training and assessment candidates are strongly recommended to gain experience supervising novices belaying, preferably in controlled situations.

Route choice & problem avoidance
The choice of route is a key element of problem avoidance when supervising climbing. A well selected route should be appropriate to the skills and ability of the group members and therefore problems such as over-anxiety or jammed limbs should not occur. Other equally important considerations are the safety of route - taking into account such factors as the likelihood of swinging falls or the position of difficult moves in relation to ledges. If the hardest moves are directly off the ground or from a ledge then it would be difficult to prevent a falling climber from making contact with the ground/ledge.

Training and Injury Avoidance
Climbing walls provide intense physical demands that can result in injuries such as strained finger tendons or in the case of bouldering walls, lower limb injuries from poor landings. Candidates should be aware of these dangers and take steps to minimise their likelihood by instilling good practice on the part of novices under their supervision. Issues such as warming up prior to climbing routes at the limit of ones ability and the risks of training injuries at walls should be discussed. Training techniques are continually evolving in climbing and candidates should be aware of how to go about gaining suitable information to ensure safe and effective training.
As the accessibility of walls is likely to continue to improve, they must be regarded as an important element of a training course. Topics such as the differences between climbing at walls and crags and the potential impacts on outdoor climbing if most newcomers to the sport have their first climbing experiences at walls can be covered through discussion sessions. Certain issues, however, such as the specific procedures and the concerns of climbing walls managers can only be adequately covered whilst actually at a wall.

Solving Problems
Crags that are appropriate for use by SPA holders are readily accessible top and bottom and are non-remote. With this in mind, complex rescue techniques such as hoists and improvised pulley systems are beyond the needs of the scheme. This element of the syllabus should therefore be seen in context as a series of simple steps that can be implemented in the event of a climber getting stuck whilst climbing or abseiling on a crag on which it is always possible to lower him/her to the ground.
Emergency Procedures should be introduced during a training course in a progressive way. The skills relate to many other aspects of the syllabus and should be incorporated into general sessions rather than dealt with in isolation. Most emergencies relating to novices getting stuck whilst climbing or abseiling can be anticipated. It should be illustrated repeatedly that careful planning and organisation will prevent these situations from ever occurring.
More emphasis should be placed on opportunities good practice to avoid problems than on specific techniques to solve them once they have occurred. Opportunities to discuss and demonstrate good practice in choice of venue, choice of route, setting appropriate expectations of the students, establishment of clear communications, positioning of ropes systems and positioning of the supervisor should be integrated throughout the training course.
In addition to an integrated approach to problem avoidance, a hierarchy of actions to solve simple problems if they do arise should be considered. A sequence is provided below, although any approach that stresses the importance of simplicity and avoids the tendency to look at a worst case scenario first is appropriate. In normal circumstances it would be expected that a training course would include the following in either discussion or theory:

• Eye contact and oral encouragement
• Tight rope to pull up a move or to give reassurance prior to continuing with the ascent/descent
• In the case of abseiling, consider releasing the tension in the abseil rope
• Approach the stuck climber (from above or below) - to give encouragement from nearby. The climber then continues the supervised ascent/descent or is lowered to the ground
• Approach the stuck climber (from above or below) - to give physical assistance. The climber then continues the supervised ascent/descent or is lowered to the ground

The methods outlined above would solve any common stuck climber scenarios without the introduction of any additional personal skills at training.

Bouldering
Bouldering is a form of climbing that, by definition, should not present the climber with serious risk of injury resulting from a fall. It is both a distinct element of climbing in its own right and also an effective and enjoyable means of training for roped climbing.
Whereas rock climbs have clearly defined objectives (getting to the top) bouldering is much more variable and dependent upon the imagination of the supervisor, provided they have first hand experience of the activity.
At walls, unless they can be booked exclusively, bouldering will take place amongst other wall users. Strategies to control the session, as well as providing direction, should therefore be evolved to avoid conflict and ensure that the sessions are constructive, well managed and enjoyable. Due to the typically steep nature of bouldering walls, an important additional consideration for the supervisor is that of injury avoidance. The development of warming-up methods and a progressive approach to climbing on bouldering walls, whereby easy problems with large holds are climbed first, is advised. By its very nature, bouldering can become a very competitive activity, but this can be countered to some extent if supervisors encourage supportive interaction, where small groups help and spot each other whilst bouldering.
Candidates are expected to gain bouldering experience both as an individual and in a supervisory capacity prior to an assessment. Contrary to the apparently low risk associated with bouldering it is the one activity where students under supervision can, and frequently do, fall unprotected to the ground. At walls it is usual to have some form of matting, but this is very variable and as a consequence the activity must be modified to suit the nature of the facility.
Bouldering at crags differs from that at walls in several respects: (1) good bouldering may be associated with hazardous landings, (2) the bouldering may conflict with established routes, (3) descents are usually more complex and (4) venues are often more difficult to define and manage. Where an appropriate bouldering site exists, this can provide an excellent activity - either in its own right or as a supplement to a roped climbing session

4 GUIDANCE NOTES FOR COURSE PROVIDERS & ASSESSORS
Assessors should use the logbook to evaluate the depth and breadth of experience of a candidate. Experience cannot be measured simply in terms of the length of time a candidate has been climbing. With the minimum of 12 months climbing experience pre-training, it would be expected that most candidates would complete an additional 60 logged climbs on a variety of rock types prior to assessment. Typically, approximately 30 of these routes will have been led, with many of Severe grade.

In addition to this independent personal climbing experience a potential award holder should gain experience assisting with the supervision of novices climbing. This should comprise approximately 20 sessions and ideally include experience with young people as well as adults. Although some of these sessions should be at a wall, it is essential that the majority are at more than one crag.

1. TECHNICAL COMPETENCE
 
4.1.1 Equipment

4.1.2 Anchors
Assessors should select venues to provide a wide range of choice of anchor. Candidates are expected to exercise sound judgement whatever the rock type encountered.

4.1.3 Belaying
Assessors will usually choose to assess this important fundamental aspect of climbing by observing the candidate rock climbing with a peer. Commonly the candidate will be given a free choice of routes on which to demonstrate competence.

4.1.4 Abseiling
Assessors may assess abseiling as a personal skill during a course. This may, for example, be when a candidate has to retrieve gear that has not been removed from a climb. It is expected that the abseil could be prepared and conducted in a safe, methodical manner. Due care should be given to the risk of rope abrasions over edges and potential damage to the crag environment must also be anticipated and avoided.

4.1.4 Personal Climbing
Route choice
Route selection with the use of guidebooks or by a visual assessment of the rock can be revealing as to the experience of the candidate. Assessors should be cautious however about expecting quick and accurate route selection at a venue familiar to themselves, but new to the candidates. Candidates will usually have the opportunity to select and climb a route in consultation with their assessor. Exceptionally, an assessor may choose to select a specific route for a candidate to climb in order to assess certain aspects of his/her ability.

Severe grade climbs
Prior to attendance on assessment a candidate should have the ability to lead Severe grade climbs which will have been recorded in the log book. During an assessment it is usual to demonstrate this competence on rock climbs with leader-placed protection, but in exceptional circumstances (such as extremes of weather) and where the candidate is particularly experienced, this requirement may be modified.

Leading climbs
The ability to lead climbs and place suitable runners is a fundamental requirement of the SPA scheme. Leading a rock climb requires many of the skills of a competent supervisor; judging the difficulty of moves, placing sound runners, arranging solid belays and being correctly positioned to eliminate shock loading on a belay system. As such it is a useful tool to evaluate the ability of a candidate and to stress the significance of personal ability as an indicator of competence - from which safe systems for supervising novices will flow naturally.

Safety chains and fall factors
An understanding of basic principles relating to safe and efficient linkages in a belay system is important. It is usual for this to be evaluated through discussion, either as opportunities arise during the practical elements of a course, or through some form of written or discussion paper.

Climbing walls
Most assessment courses will visit a climbing wall. This may contribute to the training of candidates through discussion of relevant issues such as group-use regulations, the importance of warming-up and the benefits and limitations of walls as a medium for the introduction of novices. Due to the controlled nature of the indoor wall environment, many assessors find them useful as venues to assess the basic skills of rope management and teaching belaying in particular. Conversely, the controlled nature of the environment does not facilitate the demonstration of many of the important judgements that are essential for the sound supervision of climbing.

4.2 THE CLIMBING ENVIRONMENT
While it is not common it is possible that candidates who operate in a way that damages the environment or jeopardises access would fail the course even if the technical aspects of their performance were satisfactory.

It is usual for these elements of the syllabus to be further trained during an assessment course once an assessor is satisfied that the candidate has the basic empathy with the climbing environment that is required.

Competent candidates would be expected to have made themselves familiar with local access issues even if they are undertaking an assessment in an unfamiliar area. They should achieve this through researching the various well-established sources of information.

As well as prior access knowledge, the actions of a candidate in relation to conservation whilst at a climbing site should be observed and, where appropriate, discussed. The impact of climbers will be clearly visible at most popular sites and strategies to minimise this should be debated.

Climbing ethics exist in the form of unwritten codes of conduct with distinct variations from area to area. An assessor would expect a candidate to be sensitive to and aware of both locally and nationally important issues being debated in the climbing press. As with many other aspects of the syllabus, the climbing experience recorded in the logbook is likely to be a good indicator of the depth of knowledge of topical climbing issues. Assessors must ensure that candidates are aware of the need to operate in accordance with local ethics and often this will have to be evaluated through questioning rather than observation.

Minimum impact on the physical environment and other site users is fundamental to good supervision of climbing. Assessors must be confident that candidates operate in a suitably sensitive way so as to avoid conflict between their activities and those of other climbers.

Sustainable climbing depends on sensitive and sympathetic use of the crag environment. Although assessment of the practical skills is easier to evaluate than the attitudes and actions of candidates relating to the climbing environment, this should carry equal weighting to the other more practical aspects. A variety of techniques exist for an assessor to evaluate the sensitivity with which a candidate regards the crag environment - such as discussion topics, written papers, scrutiny of the logbook, observation during all stages of the practical course and direct questioning as issues present themselves.

4.3 SUPERVISION
The assessment of group supervision may take place with groups of genuine novices, through simulation with peers and through discussion. An assessor should consider the supervising experience as recorded in the logbook and use this to contribute to an overall evaluation of the candidate. The benefits of using real novices during an assessment must be balanced against the increased practical complications that result from having an additional group for which the assessor may have overall responsibility. Unless this situation is carefully managed, the flexibility of a session may be lost and an assessment compromised by the needs of the novices. The benefits of assessing a candidate in a more realistic supervisory role, however will at times outweigh the potential difficulties.

It is usual for an assessor to establish basic competence on the part of a candidate as a personal climber in the first place, before assessing him/her in a supervisory capacity. Assessing personal climbing ability first ensures an appropriate emphasis on the need for the candidate to be first and foremost a climber, rather than a supervisor of climbing with only a limited climbing ability. Inevitably programmes will be changed in response to prevailing conditions, but assessing personal climbing ability prior to supervisory skills ensures a degree of competence before taking responsibility for the well being of others. This reinforces the need for the supervisor to be a climber.

Assessors may choose to provide a range of equipment for candidates to use, or they may ask them to provide their own. It is usual for an assessment course to contain an element of training and assessors should use this opportunity to extend, as well as to assess the knowledge of candidates in relation to suitable equipment for group use.

The management of novices at a climbing site can be difficult to assess without a group of genuine novices for the candidate to work with. When real novices are not used, an assessor will have to use discussion and questioning techniques to ensure that a candidate has developed sound judgement in this area.

4.3.3 Belaying and Top-Roping
A common cause of failure is an inability to create efficient belay systems in a variety of situations. This often reflects a lack of climbing experience at a variety of different venues and rock types. As far as possible, an assessor should provide appropriate opportunities for the candidate to demonstrate a range of skills by selecting situations where different solutions are required. The situation in which one particular solution is the obvious one, but the assessor directs the candidate to perform a different technique, is less satisfactory than presenting the candidate with a situation which demands the use of a different technique.

The important point an assessor must remember is that it is not just a range of technical skills that combine to make the actions of a supervisor safe, but the judgement as to when to apply the different techniques that really matters. Assessors should build in opportunities throughout the course where different solutions are suitable (single anchors/multiple anchors, direct belays/indirect belays, top-roping/bottom-roping, use of slings to equalise anchors or a rigging rope etc.). The objective in creating choices, rather than being directive about the performance of specific skills, is that it provides the opportunity for the candidate to demonstrate judgement as well as perform skills.
Supervision of group members belaying
One of the most difficult decisions an inexperienced supervisor must make is when to allow novices to belay each other. In order to assess this, assessors need to select venues and define tasks with care.

4.3.4 Route Choice
The importance of route selection should not be overlooked during an assessment, where the focus can often be on techniques in isolation, rather than on a more holistic approach. Candidates should be given the opportunity to select routes and for this to be a meaningful exercise, venues used during a course should provide the opportunity for suitable and unsuitable routes to be chosen. Providing real choices in the selection of routes, rather than directing candidates to specific climbs, will assist in the assessment of the awareness of problem avoidance on the part of the candidate.

As with the recurring issue of the crag environment, problem avoidance is a theme that is best dealt with as issues arise throughout the course, rather than as a session in isolation. Route choice follows choice of crag and choice of approach in the sequence of decisions that contribute to a well-structured climbing experience. As far as possible candidates should be given the opportunity to contribute to these decisions during an assessment course.

4.3.5 Abseiling
The supervision of abseiling provides good opportunities to assess aspects of environmental awareness and climbing ethos. Once again, these associated issues will be best evaluated if the candidate is given a relatively free choice as to the site for an abseil. Assessors should avoid directing a candidate to use one specific site, as this will result in an assessment only of the technical and supervisory skills, without providing the opportunity for the candidate to demonstrate and justify the reasoning behind their choice of site.

4.3.6 Emergency Procedures
Most assessors will choose to integrate emergency procedures throughout the course rather than dealing with them as a set of skills in isolation. Because single pitch crags within the scope of the award have, by definition, easy access top and bottom, most solutions to problems will be solved by simply lowering the novice to the ground. As a form of further training during an assessment course, it is useful to take advantage of situations as they occur and question what problems could possibly arise in different situations. The experience of the candidates and assessors should be pooled to establish what problems have ever occurred on single pitch crags. By providing real choice and getting candidates to justify their decisions, an assessor should be able to evaluate whether a candidate has the experience to foresee (and therefore avoid) likely problems. Where a candidate does not have the experience to foresee problems, it would be reasonable to set a testing scenario that requires appropriate simple skills to resolve. Equally, where an assessor has every confidence that a candidate has the experience and approach to foresee and avoid problems, it may be that they are not set a specific problem scenario to solve.

The use of hoists, the ability to prussik up a rope and the use of counter-balance rescues are beyond the needs of a single pitch leader. Although candidates may choose to perform these skills to solve problems, an assessor should not describe arbitrary situations that require the performance of these skills. It is recognised that at times an assessor will wish to set specific problem situations and every effort should be made to ensure that these are as realistic as possible. Assessors should realise that the ultimate worst case scenario may be one where an SPA holder has to call for external help, but the probability of this situation arising is very low.

4.3.7 Bouldering
Aspects of bouldering should be assessed during a course. As a supervised activity at either a crag or wall, this is potentially one of the more difficult sessions to control and assessors should strive for realism when setting tasks. Logbook evidence of experience combined with discussion will contribute to the evaluation of an individual’s abilities in this area. Recognition of hazards, techniques for controlling the activity and imaginative delivery are all key factors to evaluate.

 
APPENDICES

I SAMPLE THEORY PAPERS
Written papers of some form may be given before or during the course. These should be considered as diagnostic tests designed to illustrate your strengths and identify any gaps in your knowledge. Results will not be taken in isolation. Rather, they will prompt the assessor into asking further questions and selecting appropriate tasks to be set in the latter part of the course. A sample written paper is given in Appendix 4.1. Written papers are likely to focus on areas of the syllabus which include the crag environment and knowledge of the sport.

SPA Assessment - Written Paper
1. What is the most important source of information regarding access to rock-climbing venues?
2. What other sources of information are there regarding access?
3. List points you would consider when trying to limit the impact of your group at a popular group-use crag?
4. Who first climbed the following routes?
Cenotaph Corner - Llanberis 1952
Napes Needle - Great Gable 1884
Coronation Street - Cheddar Gorge
The Bat - Cearn Dearg
Class Distinction - Mourne Mountains

5. Who would you recommend to wear a body harness rather than just a sit harness?
6. What is an HMS krab designed for?
7. What is a GriGri? Do you find it good for novices?
8. How would you assess the life expectancy of a climbing rope?
9. Which body is currently responsible for setting international minimum safety standards for climbing equipment?
10. Why might a 10 metre fall 40 metres up a climb be less serious than when 20 metres up the same overhanging route?
11. What type of rock is found at;
a Stanage - Peak District?
b Harrisons Rocks - SE England?
c Pigeon Rock - Mourne Mountains?
d Craigie Barns - Southern Highlands?
e Morlais Quarry - South Wales?

12. What would you recommend as one of the most important methods of injury avoidance when climbing or training?
13. Where would you find information about local climbing clubs?
14. List three of the main interests of the Mountaineering Councils?
15. At your ideal climbing wall for novice supervision list five features/qualities you would like to see?
16. For the purposes of the SPA scheme what is the definition of a single pitch rock climb/crag?

II SAMPLE PROGRAMMES

TRAINING COURSE
Evening 1
Course introduction, paperwork
Review of personal climbing skills
Use of walls - management constraints, roped & unroped activities, and injury avoidance

Day 1
Meet at Crag A
Guidebooks and route choice
Runner placements, belay construction and leading climbs
Belaying and lowering
Personal abseiling

Evening 2
Review of practical sessions
Gear review
Environmental case studies
Responsibilities of a group leader

Day 2
Meet at Crag B
Impact analysis - choice of crag, mode of transport/parking, choice of approach & routes, style of ascent etc.
Top roping, bottom roping, abseiling with novices
Rigging and supervising the activity - anticipating problems & minimising impact
Bouldering
Course review - Logbooks & personal action plans

ASSESSMENT COURSE

Pre-course
Send in logbooks
Receive home paper & discussion topic (optional)

Evening 1
Climbing walls - use, management constraints, roped & unroped options, injury avoidance

Day 1
Crag A
Guidebooks & route choice
Runner placements, belay construction & leading climbs
Belaying & lowering
Personal abseiling

Evening 2
Home paper discussion & topics presented

Day 2
Meet at Crag B
Impact analysis - choice of crag, mode of transport/parking, choice of approach & routes, style of ascent etc.
Top roping, bottom roping, abseiling with novices
Rigging and supervising the activity - anticipating problems & minimising impact
Supervised bouldering
Course review & Results

Note; assessments may, at the discretion of the course provider, involve groups of novices

III EXPERIENCE PRE-REQUIREMENTS

Please consider the advice given below. You should note that the figures given are absolute minimums and that most successful candidates have well in excess of the experience outlined;

• To be involved in the SPA scheme you need to be a rock climber and have an interest in the supervision of novices in the activity. A minimum of 12 months rock climbing experience is expected.
• Before attending a Training Course
  you must first register with one of the Four Mountain Training Boards. This will provide you with a logbook and your personal details will be entered on that national database.
• To get the most out of your Training Course you should have led at least 15 climbs outdoors on routes where the protection is leader-placed.
  Without having done at least this amount of leading you are unlikely to play a constructive part on the course.
• Between Training and Assessment
  you must consolidate new ideas and techniques and gain additional climbing experience. . Your trainer will advise you about the amount and nature of the personal climbing and supervising experience you should gain.
• Candidates should not present themselves for Assessment until they have:

  1. Led a minimum of 40 climbs, outdoors on leader placed protection. Some of these must be at least Severe grade and they should be on a variety of rock types.

  2. assisted with the supervision of climbing for approximately 20 sessions at a variety of locations
  (a session is a half day or evening)

IV BIBLIOGRAPHY
The following publications are relevant to several areas of the syllabus:

The Handbook of Climbing
A Fyffe & I Peter. Pelham Books, 1997

A Manual of Modern Rope Techniques,
N Shepherd. Constable, 1998

Mountaineering Council Newsletters
High, Climber, and On The Edge magazines

The following publications are listed under the relevant syllabus heading:

Technical Competence
How to Rock Climb: Climbing Anchors,
J Long. Chockstone Press, 1993
How to Rock Climb: Face Climbing,
J Long. Chockstone Press, 1992
Knots Booklet,
BMC
Performance Rock Climbing,
D Goddard & V Neumann. Stockpole Books, 1993
Ropes Booklet
, BMC
Training for Rock Climbing
S Bollen. Penguin Books, 1994

The Climbing Environment
Climbing Guidebooks,
access and environmental sections, BMC, CC, FRCC, SMC etc
Climbing Anthologies eg Classic Rock,
K Wilson. Granada, 1981
Hard Rock,
K Wilson. Granada, 1981,History of the BMC, BMC, 1997
The Games Climbers Play,
K Wilson. Baton Wicks, 1978
Britain Before Man,
Dunning, Mercer, Owen & Roberts, Lambert. HMSO 1978
Mountaincraft & Leadership,
Access & Conservation section, E Langmuir. MLTB/SSC, 1995
Out & About in the Countryside
, Countryside Commission.
Climbing Wall Manual, Design Development and Management.
BMC, 1997

Supervision
First Aid on Mountains,
S Bollen. BMC, 1989
Leading & Managing Groups in the Outdoors,
K. Ogilvie. NAOI Publications,1993
Mountain and Cave Rescue,
MRC. Visual Communications, 1994
Medical Handbook for Mountaineers,
Steele. Constable, 1988
Working Out of Doors with young people,
A Smith. ITRC 1987
Horizons
, occasional articles on "near misses"

 
V MLTUK REQUIREMENTS FOR COURSE PROVIDERS
In September 1997 the MLTUK agreed a set of quality control requirements for all training boards. These minimum requirements may then be added to by individual boards

1. Approval system
Approval to become a course provider may only be granted by a Training Board, not an individual employee. Initial approval would be for one "Probationary" course which would be moderated. Subject to a favourable report approval would then be granted for the remainder of the year.
Course provider status is granted for one year only. A review at the end of the year enables the board to consider all approvals
All providers must be holders of either a Mountain Instructor Award or Certificate or a Guide. They will also have experience of at least three SPA courses, one of which is an assessment before gaining approval. All applicants have to satisfy their board that they fulfil any additional requirements such as meeting the needs of a specific catchment of candidates.

2. Workshops
All boards run training events and workshops for their providers. Attendance at an approved workshop at least once every three years is a mandatory requirement. Providers may attend events run by their own or any other board.
.
3. Ratios
1:4 on training courses, maximum course size 8, minimum 4. Assistant must hold SPA or a higher award.

1:4 on assessment courses, maximum course size 8, minimum 2. Assistant must hold MIA or a higher award.

4. Moderation
Following the initial visit to the probationary course providers can normally expect to be visited by a moderator once in three years.

5 Board/ Provider Links
The MLTB, NIMTB, SMLTB and WMLTB are required to develop a variety of methods of ensuring effective communication between themselves and their providers. Currently these include newsletters and personal contacts between providers and training board staff as well as the workshops and moderation listed above.